In Greece, a Culinary Revolution Rises Beyond Tourist Menus
At Soul, Athens' newly Michelin-starred restaurant, chef Thanos Feskos carefully plates kritharaki, a traditional orzo pasta, with sea urchin and bottarga. The dish exemplifies how a new generation of Greek chefs is revolutionizing the country's cuisine while honoring its deep roots.
"We're moving past the tourist clichés," says Carolina Doriti, author of "Salt of the Earth," a comprehensive exploration of Greek regional cooking. "Greece's culinary heritage is incredibly diverse and sophisticated, shaped by geography, necessity, and centuries of knowledge."
This heritage is particularly evident on Tinos, an island gaining recognition as Greece's unexpected culinary star. Here, local cheese makers still produce kopanisti, a peppery fermented cheese, using techniques passed down through the generations. The island's terraced hillsides, stabilsed by ancient stone walls, produce exceptional artichokes and capers that feature prominently in local dishes.
In Crete, where the Mediterranean diet originated, traditional dishes reveal the sophistication of Greek cooking. "Gamopilafo, our wedding rice dish, requires multiple cuts of meat cooked for hours to create the perfect stock," explains Maria Loi, a prominent Greek chef and cookbook author. "It's these labour-intensive techniques that we're now seeing celebrated in modern restaurants."
Back in Athens, the gastronomic scene is booming. Birdman, ranked among World's 50 Best Bars, serves innovative cocktails incorporating Greek herbs and spirits. At Line Athens, chef Periklis Koskinas reimagines traditional recipes with modern techniques. Even street food is evolving: at Guarantee, souvlaki gets a gourmet upgrade with premium cuts and house-made pitas.
"What we're seeing is a renaissance," says Doriti. "Chefs are rediscovering regional ingredients and techniques." She points to traditions like trahana, a fermented grain product that dates back to ancient times, now appearing on high-end menus.
The movement extends beyond restaurants. At Yoleni's, a food emporium in central Athens, shelves are stocked with products from small producers: wild herbs from Mount Parnon, thyme honey from Kythira, rare cheese varieties from isolated mountain villages.
Traditional preservation techniques are also gaining new relevance. On Tinos, tomatoes are sun-dried on rooftops, while in northern Greece, foraged mushrooms are dried for winter use. These methods, once born of necessity, are now celebrated both for their sustainability and their intense flavors.
At Line Athens, the menu might feature house-made avgotaraho (cured fish roe) or traditionally fermented vegetables. "We're not just preserving recipes," says Koskinas, "we're preserving knowledge."
This culinary evolution is also influencing how tourists experience Greek food. High-end hotels now offer foraging expeditions and cooking classes focused on regional specialties. Food tours explore neighborhood markets and traditional kafeneia (cafes) rather than just tourist spots.
The movement has even reached Greek street food. At Guarantee in the trendy Koukaki neighborhood, the humble souvlaki is elevated with premium ingredients and traditional techniques, proving that even casual dining can showcase Greek culinary sophistication.
As the sun sets over Athens' rooftop bars, where mixologists craft cocktails using mastiha from Chios and citrus from the Peloponnese, it's clear that Greek cuisine is entering a new era. One that honours its past while embracing innovation, proving that there's much more to discover beyond the ubiquitous Greek salad.
Text Sara Magro
