The impenetrable charm of the Peloponnese
The Peloponnese peninsula holds extraordinary treasures both in terms of its natural environment, and the historical remains to be found in the area. Moreover, there is a glut of eco-chic resorts offering five-star comforts.
Joined to the mainland by a thin isthmus cut by the Corinth Canal, the Island of Pelops (the origin of the name Peloponnese) stretches out its three "fingers" to the South, lapped by currents at the meeting point of the Ionian and Aegean Seas. It is a land of ancestral myths, raw nature, and of lively, characteristic towns and villages. Towards the sun-baked hinterland and behind the picturesque port of Nafplio rises Mycenae: crossing the Lions' Gate, which for 3.300 years has been the access to the city of Agamemnon, still today surrounded by its cyclopean walls, is a truly moving experience. And in nearby Epidaurus you can catch an evening performance in what is considered to be the finest Greek theatre in the world, both for its state of preservation and its perfect acoustics.
Laconia, to the south, is a land of few words. The landscape is as essential as the stone that sculpts the island-city of Monemvasia, for centuries one of the most contested outposts of Mediterranean power. Today you can admire the elegance of a boutique hotel created from a Byzantine palace or the sobriety of a medieval bastion embellished by the green cascade of a caper plant. Towards the end of the eastern "finger" is the island of Elafonissos, one of the most evocative natural spots in the whole Peloponnese characterized by Caribbean beaches, centuries-old junipers and the incessant chirping of cicadas. This is the Greece we all dream of, still sheltered from the tides of over tourism, particularly outside the month of August. The beauty of such places is dazzling, and it is no coincidence that legend places the birth of Aphrodite right here, in the sea off the island of Kithyra. Yachties dock in Kapsali, a charming little port dotted with tavernas offering magnificent views of the castle and the chora, before embarking on the exciting voyage towards Porto Kagio, an idyllic bay sculpted into the eastern slope of the Mani.
A few miles further south lies Tenaro, the wildest promontory of the peninsula and the southernmost point in continental Greece. For the ancients, this was the gateway to Hades. The rugged ridge of Taygetos splits Mani into two distinct sections, each with its own character. The “sunny” one to the east is more suitable for swimming and chatting while the “shady” one to the west overlooks the Gulf of Messinia and is less accessible and therefore more authentic and exclusive. A rugged cliff hides beguiling treasures such as the Diròs caves and a landscape dotted with stone towers hinting at a warlike past.
Nestled on the rocky coastline lie elegant, eco-chic resorts which give due attention to sustainability and environmental impact without sacrificing comfort and top-notch services. Other hotels with a similar ethos lie on the rather tamer western coast of the Peloponnese with long swathes of fine sand. Particularly attractive, and bathed by the Ionian Sea, is Methoni; if you arrive by yacht, you can moor under the old Venetian fortress which dominates the town. This region of Messenia is rich in history and ravishing natural beauty. The beach of Voidokilia was cited by the New York Times as one of the 10 most spectacular in the world and the temple of Apollo Epicurius was included among the Unesco heritage sites even before the Acropolis of Athens. Then there is the Gialova lagoon with its 300-odd bird species, the palace of the glorious Nestor, the castle of Pylos and the sight of the Caretta turtles that come to nest among the sand dunes in the area.
This stretch of coast is known as the Costa Navarino. High-end accommodation includes the new Mandarin Oriental which opened in August 2023, debuting the brand in Greece. Nearby are two 18-hole golf courses, designed by champion José María Olazábal, which offer breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside and the bay. There is also a slew of activities on offer all linked to the area.
A few miles further north, overlooking the splendid Kourouta Beach and the island of Zakinthos, stands the Dexamenes Seaside Hotel. Opened in 2021 (and immediately selected as a finalist in the 2022 Mies van der Rohe Prize for Contemporary Architecture). But the pinnacle of high-end hospitality in the Peloponnese is Amanzoe which, since its inauguration in 2012, has transformed Port Heli into the region's most prestigious destination.
With its efforts to make the area the protagonist of its own development, the Peloponnese is at odds with the sometimes stereotypical idea of Greece, yet a holiday here offers the very best of this fascinating and hugely rewarding country.
